Production of weaving effects by variable warp tensioning means



March 11, 194.47. A Z 2,417,204 PRODUCTION OF WEAVING EFFECTSBY-VARIABLE WARP TENSIONING MEANS Filed NOV. 10, 1943 4 FIG] PatentedMar. 11, 1947 PRODUCTION F WEAVING EFFECTS BY VARIABLE WARP TENSIONINGMEANS Adolf Lani, Wettingen-Damsau, Switzerland, assignor toBaumwoll-Spinnerei & Weberel Wettingen, Wettingen, SwitzerlandApplication November 10, 1943, Serial No. 509,749 In SwitzerlandNovember 11, 1942 3 Claims. 1

This invention relates to the production of weaving effects.

It is already old in the loom art to deflect groups of threads out 01'the normal path of the warp by means of a guide member actuatedperiodically during the weaving and thereby to subject them toalternating tension so as to incorporate them in sinuous form in theweft and thus produce loose and dense places in the woven fabric orso-called woven efiects, which may be uniform or non-uniform inconfiguration. It is old in the art for this purpose to conduct warpthreads over spring-loaded tensioning rollers or through dobbles, or,more preferably, over oscillating members, the latter serving tosimplify operations.

The present invention is a carrying forward of this idea, and, inaccordance with the invention, a lower thread guiding roller is providedfor the threads subdivided out of the warp, and between this roller andthe usual upper thread guiding ro ler there is disposed at least oneoscillating member, the whole being so constituted that the aforesaidsubdivided warp threads can be conducted from the warp beam over thelower thread guiding roller to the oscillating member and thence to theupper thread guiding roller, the latter also serving for guiding theremainin portion of the warp.

Accordingly, the warp threads subdivided out of the warp are thus causedto pass separately from the Warp beam to the usual upper thread guidingroller and consequently the remaining portion of the warp also continuestravelling separately. In this case, of the various auxiliary meansprovided for accomplishing the object of the invention, the horizontaloperating range oi.-

the loom remains as it is, so that the threads are not subjected towear, in addition to which the arrangement of the invention can also besubsequently applied without dimculty to modern looms, e. g. thosehaving automatic warp thread stop devices. Moreover, since the warpthreads subdivided out of the warp and to which an alternating tensionis to be imparted, are conducted over the lower thread guide rollerseparately from the remaining warp threads, the operating conditionsnecessary for producing the woven eifect remain unchanged between thefull and the empty warp beam so that the woven effect will be producedexactly in accordance with the pattern provided.- Furthermore, thearrangement permits facile supervision and accessibility for control andother purposes. Moreover, it serves to facilitate subdivision of threadsfromthe warp, the normal 2 path or such threads being suitably governedby a supplementary thread guide roller provided between the warp beamand the upperthread guide roller.

For this purpose the oscillating member may be actuated by astep-by-step ratchet device disposed in the upper portion ofthe loomframe, the said ratchet device being likewise readily accessible foradjusting and other purposes.

The drawing serves to illustrate an embodiment of the invention. In thedrawings Fig. l shows an elevtaion oi. a portion of a loom;

Fig. 2 is a view of parts not shown in Fig, 1 as seen at right angles tothe picture plane of the latter;

Fig. 3 is anillustration similar to Fig. 1 showing parts included inFig. 2;

Fig. 4 is a view as seen at right angles to the picture plane of Fig. 3,and

Fig. 5 shows a piece of woven fabric produced by the method according tothe present invention.

As shown in Fig. 1, on the side shield I 01' a mechanical loom ismounted on a pivot 2 a feed wheel 3 to which a locking pawl 4 and a feedpawl are correlated. The feed pawl 5 is mounted on a two-armed carrierlever B which is supported by an axle 'l and connected with anoscillating rod 9 by means of a connecting screw 8. The screw 8 isadjustably arranged in a longitudinal slot III of the carrier lever B inorder to permit of varying the throw to be transmitted to the feed pawl5 by the oscillatory rod 9 via the carrier lever 6 so that said rodfeeds the wheel 3 each time by two or three ratchet teeth of this wheel,when the rod 9 is moved in the direction indicated by,an arrow. Theoscillatory rod 9 is moved to and fro during the operation of the loomto which end it is connected with a part (not shown) of the loom movingin accordance with the working cycle 01' the latter, advantageously, therod is, for example, connected with the back rest operating lever orwith the automatic feeding device of the warp beam or with the slay.

A radial projection H of the hub of the feed wheel 3 is engaged by anextensible connecting link l2, the two parts of which are longitudinallyadjustably connected with each other by means of screws I 3. Theconnecting link i2 is adjustably. arranged on' the feed wheel 3 in aradial slot of the latter by means of a screw bolt l4 functioning as acrank pin. The second end of the connecting link I2 is radiallyadjustably arranged by means of a screw 15 in a slot of a swinging leverl5 which is fixed to a shaft I'i which rests at both of its ends inbearings stationarily arranged on the loom frame. Parallel with theshaft I'I extends a round bar I8 the ends of which are firmly secured tothe shaft I'I by means of mounting arms 19.

In the operation-of the loom the feed wheel 3 is periodically advanced acertain part-turn by means of the pawl 5 through the osillatory rod 9via the carrier lever 6. Accordingly the connecting link I! is moved toand fro commensurate with the movement of the crank pin M, and the shaftI7 is rocked back and forth about its axis by means of the swinginglever 16, whereby the round bar i8 reciprocates accordingly about theaxis of the shaft I! and thus acts in the manner of a reciprocatory bar.

In Fig. 3, the numeral 20 designates the warp beam, 2! the usual backrest and 22 an additional back rest. The numeral 23 refers to a threadguiding roller which is arranged close by the warp beam 20. From thewarp a, at distances apart, groups of threads b are divided oil asindicated in dash lines in Fig. 4, and from Fig. 3 it will be seen thatthese groups extend away from the warp beam 20 .past the roller 23 andthen across the reciprocatory bar l3 and the back rest 2!. From the warpare further divided off groups of threads c which also extend away fromthe warp beamzo across the roller 23, the reciprocatory bar i8. and theback rest 2i. The thread groups c two of which are shown in chaindottedlines in Fig. 4 each adjacent a thread group I), bear against thereciprocatory bar i8 on the side of the latter opposite to that againstwhich bear the thread groups b. The thread grou s b and c are thusdiverted from the normal course of the warp threads a in differentmanner between the warp beam and the place of weaving since said threadsa pass at this place from the warp beam 20 round the additional backrest 22 and the usual back rest 2i.

At each reciprocation of the slay, that is, after each picking of theweft thread the feed wheel 3 is advanced, whereby the reciprocatory barI8 is moved back and forth in opposite directions each time after acertain number of feed steps have been performed. By this means thetension of the thread groups b and c passing across the reciprocatorybar l8 on oppostie sides thereof is continuallychanged in consequencewhereof these groups are alternately tautened and released again to agreater or lesser extent, while the warp threads a following the normalcourse are subjected to constant tension.

The varying tensioning of the thread grou b and c of the warp has suchan effect on the weave in progress of formation that in the same withinthe embrace of the thread groups b and c tighter portions (1 and looserportions e are formed in the manner illustrated in Fig. 5 without anyfurther provisions. In the illustration' of Fig. 5 only thread groups I)and c that adjoin each other are included, that is, warp threads a arenot taken into consideration at all, it being understood that naturally,by way of example, several such pairs of thread groups I), may bearranged side by side. Within the embrace of the warp threads 11 theweave is given uniform tightness and thus presents a homogeneous aptheloom. 55

beginning to be varied is noticeable.

Concerning choosing the weft threads to be diverted from the normalcourse of the warp,-

any possibility of variation is left open as will be readily seen. Ifrequired, several reciprocatory bars ,to be moved in accordance with theworkingcycle of the loom may be provided, each bar for governing apartof the warp threads being diverted from the normal course of the warp.The movement of the reciprocatory bar is or other movable part servingas a swing may alternatively, for example, also be carried out inaccordance with a Jacquard device or a dobby which, by way of example,would control the cooperation of the feed pawl 5 with the feed wheel 3commensurate with the number of feed steps to be performed.

weaves carried out in accordance with the method according to theinvention may, for example, be intended for producing articles of 25washable wear, such as sporting shirts or the like,

further fabrics for ladies garments, curtains, draperies, or the like.

Iclaim: l. A loom arrangement for producing woven to eifects, an upperwarp thread guide roller for contacting and guiding all of the threadsof the warp, a lower warp thread guide roller for guiding a subdividedgroup of warp threads, and an oscillating member disposed between saidupper and lower guide rollers for applying tension to and releasing thetension of said group of warp threads, the guides being so disposed thatthe said group of warp threads is' guided from the warp beam over thelower thread guiding roller 40 to the oscillating member and thence tothe upper thread guide roller, which also serves for guiding theremaining portion of the warp.

2. A loom arrangement according to claim 1, and in which a supplementarythread guiding roller is provided between the warp beam and the upperthread guide, the said supplementary thread guiding roller serving todetermine the normal path of the part of the warp not subdivided out ofthe warp.

3. A loom arrangement according to claim 1,

wherein the oscillating member derives its movement from an adjustablestroke step-by-step ratchet device disposed in the upper portion ofADOLF LANZ.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file ofthis patent:

